So you've found the cologne or unisex scent you love. But once you've found the right scent, you're probably wondering: How can cologne last longer? Like, as long as possible?
“I think Americans are a little less informed about the proper use of fragrance,” said Matt Moore, co-owner of Austin-based EastWest Bottlers. Men's Magazine. “Big, animal scents—musk-based, woody, or oud-based—typically have a much stronger trail when you walk past someone or leave an elevator, and that scent is still there.” This trail is called sillage, a French word that means “wake.” “Most Americans don't want strong silage,” he continued. “They don't want it to be overwhelming, but they want it to project. If I'm this close to you, you'll be like, 'Hey, what are you wearing?' ”
Sahina Ibrahim, founder of UK-based oud specialist Nuhr Home, adds: “Think about it: Europeans like to make a statement, while Americans prefer a subtle whisper of fragrance. Oud is like the marathon runner of the fragrance world. It just goes and goes. While the floral and citrus scents are nice, they are more like sprinters and fade sooner.”
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Cologne vs. Eau de Parfum vs. Eau de Toilette
Fragrance concentration also affects how long the fragrance lasts. In general, eau de parfum contains 15-20 percent perfume oil and lasts for 5-8 hours. Eau de toilette contains less oil – 5-15 percent – and lasts for 3-4 hours. Cologne, on the other hand, contains 2-4 percent perfume oil and only lasts for two hours.
One key way to increase concentration? Turn to alcohol-based fragrances. “They last longer and emit more because the alcohol helps disperse the scent,” Ibrahim said. “Alcohol-free fragrances are gentler on the skin, but they can also be a bit shy. They won't have the same grand entrance.” (So if your skin is easily irritated, you should give up alcohol.)
Now that you know the basics of how fragrances work, what's worth it and what's not?
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Dos and don'ts: How to make your cologne last longer
Apply the fragrance after showering
“I always tell people you want to be clean,” Moore says. She also recommends using an unscented moisturizer. “Moisture will help this fragrance emerge. If your skin is really, really dry, it's almost like the body absorbs it, and the fragrance itself won't give you that projection.”
It is applied to several pulse points
“Pulse points are basically VIP areas of your body for cologne,” Ibrahim said. “Behind the ear, on the wrist, inside the elbow and behind the knee is perfect. The heat from these areas helps the scent to radiate. It also works wonders when applied to the chest and neck, but don't overdo it. Don't want to be the person everyone can smell from a mile away.”
EastWest colognes don't have a spray, instead they use the splash method, which helps with application.
But DO NOT rub it in
“Sometimes people rub their wrists together and it really changes the composition of the scent,” says Moore. “You actually start to incorporate the skin's oils into the fragrance, and we want the fragrance to sit almost on top.”
Ibrahim likens rubbing the wrists together to “shaking a soda can before you open it.” He says, “It crushes the top notes and confuses the scent.”
Moore also recommends wearing jewelry made of wood, stones, or some absorbent material. “If you wear these all day, and as your body heats up depending on your activity, it also helps the scent build up.”
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Spray the fragrance on your clothes
“It's totally appropriate,” says Moore. “If you spray it on your neck and put on a t-shirt the next morning, you get that beautiful reminder of, 'Wow, this is a warm scent that I really like,' and then you reapply and move on.”
However, Ibrahim is divided on applying fragrances to clothes. “Scent works best when it's on the skin, where it can mix with natural oils and body heat,” she says. “If you spray it directly on clothes, it can sometimes change the scent and leave marks.” But walking into a scent cloud can also work.
“If you like the idea of a scent cloud, go ahead and step in,” he adds. “Provides easier, more even application.”
DO NOT store fragrances in the bathroom – or in your car
“The bathroom tends to be one of the worst places as many people have stronger lights [in the bathroom]” notes Moore. “You want to protect yourself from the sun.” There is also a lot of humidity, which changes with each shower.”
“Scents are a bit like vampires – they hate sunlight,” adds Ibrahim. “Keep in a cool, dark place, such as a drawer or cupboard, away from heat and light.”
Moore suggests a slightly different location. “My dad had a bottle of Polo Green in his wardrobe, and we created a fragrance for my brand Sportsman in a green bottle,” he says. “The wardrobe itself is the perfect place to store fragrances because it's away from light, high humidity and temperature fluctuations.”
But what's the worst place to store your fragrance? Your vehicle. “Don't leave your perfume in the car unless you want a melted perfume bottle,” says Ibrahim.
DO NOT overdo it
Whether you choose a heavier, Oud-based scent or something lighter, layering scents provides projection. For example, EastWest's acclaimed Moonshine has notes of black pepper, and Moore suggests layering it with black pepper-scented cream.
But the most important tip is about the application. “Don't drench yourself in perfume,” says Ibrahim. “More is not always better. Sometimes less is more, especially when the scent works great on its own. Overspray is a common rookie move. It's an accent, not an alarm.”
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